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The short answer: The best paint for kitchen cabinets is Benjamin Moore Advance in satin. It levels out to a smooth, factory-like finish with few brush marks, cures hard enough to hold up to daily use, and cleans up with water. Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel is a close second. Whichever you use, start with a bonding primer and let the paint cure for 2 to 3 weeks before heavy use.
My Picks at a Glance
Benjamin Moore Advance
- Best for: Best overall, smoothest finish
- Finishes: Satin, semi-gloss, high gloss
- What I painted with it: Bathroom vanity, built-ins, kitchen cabinets
Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel
- Best for: Pro-level durability
- Finishes: Satin, semi-gloss, gloss
- What I painted with it: Old kitchen cabinets
Primers: Benjamin Moore Stix (most cabinets) and BIN Shellac (stained wood, knots or oil-based paint).
Why Benjamin Moore Advance Is My Favorite
After years of trial and error with oil-based paint, latex and chalk paint, I keep coming back to Advance. I’ve used it on a full bathroom vanity makeover, built-in shelving and kitchen cabinets, and the results have been smooth and durable every time.
- Smooth finish: It levels out as it dries, so brush and roller marks mostly disappear.
- Durable: It holds up to kitchen drawers being opened all day and bathroom humidity.
- Easy cleanup: It behaves like oil paint but cleans up with soap and water.
- Low VOCs: Safer to use indoors.
💡 The catch is patience. Wait 16 to 24 hours between coats, and give it 2 to 3 weeks to fully cure before heavy use. Rushing the cure is the number one reason painted cabinets chip.
Benjamin Moore Advance vs. Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel
I used Sherwin Williams Urethane on my old kitchen cabinets and Advance on my vanity and built-ins. Both held up well, but Advance gave me a more professional-looking finish. Here’s how they compare:
- Finish: Advance is smoother, with fewer brush marks. Urethane shows slightly more texture.
- Application: Advance is easier with a roller or brush. Urethane is less forgiving.
- Durability: Both are excellent.
- Dry time between coats: Advance needs 16 to 24 hours. Urethane dries faster.
- Cleanup: Both clean up with soap and water.
My pick: Advance if you’re a DIYer brushing or rolling. Urethane is great if you’re spraying or hiring a pro and want it to dry faster.
Satin or Semi-Gloss for Kitchen Cabinets?
I use satin on kitchen cabinets (as I did for my bathroom vanity, too). Satin has a soft sheen that looks modern and hides small dings and brush marks. Semi-gloss is shinier and a little easier to wipe clean, but it shows every imperfection in the wood and in your paint job.
- Satin: Best for most kitchens, especially shaker doors and painted wood with some grain.
- Semi-gloss: Good for a more traditional look, or for bathroom cabinets that get splashed a lot.
- High gloss: Only for perfectly smooth, sprayed doors. It’s beautiful, but it’s unforgiving.
- Skip flat and eggshell: They aren’t durable enough for cabinets.
Which Primer to Use
Primer is the step that keeps cabinet paint from peeling.
- Benjamin Moore Stix: My go-to for most cabinets, including laminate and previously painted cabinets. It sticks to slick surfaces without heavy sanding.
- BIN Shellac Primer: Use it on raw or stained wood (it blocks tannins from bleeding through), knotty wood and cabinets painted with oil-based paint.
Can You Paint Over Cabinets That Were Painted With Oil?
Yes, but you can’t put water-based paint straight onto oil. Clean the cabinets well with a degreaser, scuff-sand everything with 220-grit sandpaper, wipe off the dust, and prime with BIN Shellac Primer. Once the primer is on, you can use Advance or Urethane on top. In our old kitchen, I did this and it turned out great. You can also use a product called OIL BOND that’s specifically designed to adhere to oil-based paints.
The Best Paint for Bathroom Cabinets
The same paints work in bathrooms. I used Advance on our bathroom vanity and it still looks perfect after 3 years. Always wait the full cure time before putting things back in the drawers.
Should You Spray or Roll?
Both work. I’ve had great results with:
- High-density foam rollers for vanities and built-ins
- An HVLP sprayer for kitchen uppers and lowers, where you want a perfectly even finish across a lot of doors
Use thin coats and let each one dry completely.
My Tips for a Smooth, Lasting Finish
- Use good tools: Purdy brushes and high-density foam rollers are worth it.
- Sand between coats: Lightly, with 220-grit sandpaper.
- Don’t rush: Wait the full time between coats and give it 2 to 3 weeks to cure.
- Skip the top coat: Advance and Urethane cure hard on their own.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best paint for kitchen cabinets?
Benjamin Moore Advance in satin, with a bonding primer underneath. Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel is a close second.
What is the best Benjamin Moore paint for cabinets?
Advance. It’s Benjamin Moore’s waterborne alkyd, made for cabinets, doors and trim.
How long does cabinet paint take to cure?
It’s dry to the touch in hours, but it takes 2 to 3 weeks to cure fully. Be gentle with doors and drawers until then.
Can I use chalk paint on kitchen cabinets?
I don’t suggest it. I know this was a fad about a decade ago, but it doesn’t look professional, no matter how well you do it.
Not with Benjamin Moore Advance or SW Urethane Trim Enamel. They cure to a hard, durable finish.
Don’t panic—lightly sand the spot and touch up with a brush. It’ll blend in.
White will always be a classic, but you can also check out my favorite cabinet paint colors here.
More Cabinet Posts
- My favorite kitchen cabinet paint colors
- The best shades of white for kitchen cabinets
- Two-tone kitchen cabinet ideas
- Greige kitchen cabinets
- Paint colors that work with cherry cabinets
I have 1970 good ole pine cabinets. Few years ago we got smart painted them with a semigloss no primer just put that paint right on. … now uh oh hate them. As new cabinets are not I’m the budget how do I correct this mess. Strip? Repaint. Or learn to love the mess.
Hi Lisa,
Is the paint peeling and chipping? If it is, you’re probably going to have to strip the down. If you can live with the boxes, take the doors off and put some citristrip on and the paint should come right off. Then clean them up, sand, prime and paint. Of course, if you can learn to love them it’s a lot less labor intensive!
I use Extreme bond primer from Sherwin Williams and Emerald Urethane by Sherwin Williams and I love it and so do my clients!
Hello! I’m trying out the SW Emerald Urethane on my brand new cabinets. When we bought them the brown tones didn’t match so we are painting them black. They are showing all my brush strokes – as in if I pick up the brush and where I put my brush down or if I turn the brush sideways. So it seems I need to use one strokes all the way across. The problem will come because they are a little bit like a shaker style, so I’m not sure how to paint the inside panel without leaving marks where I’ve moved the brush tip. Do I just need to remove them and get a sprayer to spray them? Any suggestions? Thank you so much for any advice you can give!
Hi Yvonne,
You will always have some sort of brushstrokes if you paint cabinets with a brush, no matter how good the paint is. If you’re set on using a brush, paint in one direction (with the grain if it’s visible). Then paint the outside of the cabinet in one direction (clockwise). Light coats of paint help a lot too. I’ve used this paint on my cabinets and it dried really well with very minimal brushstrokes (I did only use a paintbrush too because it’s what I had on hand!). I would recommend using a foam roller made specifically for painting cabinets and doors, and you’re much less likely to see issues. Paint any corners with the brush first, then use the roller. Make sure to leave ample drying time between coats, and lightly sandy between coats, too. At this time of the year, you’re probably talking 24-48 hours between coats, especially if it’s hot and humid.
Finally – I should add, if spraying is an option, it will ALWAYS look more professional! It’s also generally quicker in the long run!
I use a nylon brush and it limits the brush strokes to very little. I also use Benjamin Moore Advance Alykd paint.
What type of paint and what prep for old formica type cabinets.
Hi Sandy, prep + paint is the same but you’re going to have to use a bonding primer to ensure adhesion to the formica. Besides that, make sure they are very clean to start with and have been sanded slightly to help the primer adhere. Then I would follow with the Alkyd paint. This article should help you: https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-paint-formica/
Any recommendation on what kind of primer to use on new unpainted cabinet door made of combination of mdf and wood? I’m thinking of using either Sherman Williams ProClassic paint or go the Benjamin Moore advance line. What would you recommend? I just repainted some maple color built in cabinets with Valspar stain blocking blocker and enamel paint and it was a bit of a battle as it seems to still be easily chipped so trying to find a better option for the kitchen. Thanks!
I would always use a shellac based primer on unsealed wood. My preference is Zinsser B-I-N Interior Multi-purpose Shellac Wall and Ceiling Primer. It will guarantee that the wood won’t bleed and works amazingly well with the ProClassic or BM Advance line over it. On another note, SW recently came out with a new line of paint – Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel and it works even better on cabinets that the ProClassic so I would consider going that route, too!
I am about to redo my oak cabinets in white paint.. I do not want them to chip and scratch, so is the best preventative mixing in the hard coat additive or topping with polyacrylic? I did my bathroom vanity in sherwin williams pro classic enamel paint and it is now scratching up ..i did the light sanding first, wiping down, primer with zissner, 2 coats and then 3 coats of paint.. and it still scratches.. my nails hit it sometimes when i grab for the handle..and now to touch up the scratches do i have to prime the scratch then paint or just paint alone? thanks , new to professioanl looking paint jobs. Kim
Hi Kimberly – you have a few options. First, I would make sure they are deglossed and light sandly. I would prime them, too just to be certain. Then – you can either use a latex paint with the hard coat additive OR use an Alkyd paint like BM’s Advanced line. Both will give you excellent results that will dry to a rock hard, chip resistant finish. The hard coat is definitely the cheaper option as BM paint are very price. But it’s up to you! While I have not painted any cabinets in my home with the hard coat, my doors get banged and kicked by my kids ALL the time and still look perfect! You should not have to top it with a polycrylic if they have been painted and allowed to cure correctly.
For the scratches, you don’t need to prime, just touch up with the paint. SW Pro Classic Enamal is really good paint that’s used for trim and cabinets all the time so I’m surprised this happened. It seems like it never cured right….did you allow each coat to fully dry before the next?
I sanded, primes and sprayed the Advance on my cupboard doors and they are all scratched. Now I hear the Advance paint is not formulated to be thinned for sprayers. Maybe that’s my problem? Any insight?
Hi Laura. What type of sprayer are you using? I’ve used the Advance line with my Wagner sprayer and didn’t need to thin it. I would contact your local BM store and ask them I don’t have have experience with thinning it.
I have read some info on fusion mineral paints have you heard anything about them compared with other hard wear paints?
Kim, Fusion Mineral paints are excellent! I’ve recently started using them for painting furniture but I don’t as of yet know anyone who has used them on kitchen cabinets (which are susceptible to grease and needing to be cleaned down).
Thank You for your quick reply! I do have access to a sprayer. Is it necessary if I am sanding the cabinet to use a primer with the Sherwin-Williams paint? I was going to consider the extreme bond primer by Sherwin-Williams. The only problem is the store is an hour away. The only close option I have Home Depot which is a half an hour away. So if I could skip the primer it would save me a trip! But I want to do it right so if I need to use the primer I will take the time. :)
I would like to do that to my kitchen cabinet. Your kitchen looks so much more relaxing and pretty. Brilliant choose of color.