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After painting everything from builder-grade vanities to full kitchen remodels over the years, I’ve tried just about every type of cabinet paint—oil-based, latex, chalk paint, you name it. Some were great. Others? Not so much.
Let’s just say I learned the hard way that not all paints are created equal—especially when it comes to cabinets that take a daily beating.
If you want that factory-smooth, long-lasting finish (without hiring a pro), choosing the right paint makes all the difference. In this post, I’m sharing what’s truly worked for me—plus honest comparisons between the top-rated cabinet paints on the market today.
What to Know Before Painting Cabinets
Before we get to the best cabinet paints, let’s cover a few quick essentials:
- Cabinets are high-touch surfaces. If you don’t use the right prep and products, the paint will chip or peel—fast.
- Bonding primer is key. I recommend Benjamin Moore® Stix® Waterborne Bonding Primer for maximum adhesion.
- Application method doesn’t matter as much as you think. Brush, roller, or sprayer can all work if you prep properly and let it cure.
- Curing time is non-negotiable. The #1 reason painted cabinets fail is rushing this step. Give it 2–3 weeks to fully harden.
My Favorite Cabinet Paint: Benjamin Moore Advance
After years of trial and error, my top pick is hands-down Benjamin Moore Advance Waterborne Alkyd. I’ve used it on:
- A full bathroom vanity makeover
- Built-in shelving
- Kitchen cabinets
…and every single time, the results have been beautiful and durable.
Why I Recommend Benjamin Moore Advance
- Incredible leveling: It dries to a factory-smooth finish with minimal brush marks.
- Durable: Holds up to heavy use (kitchen drawers, bathroom humidity, etc.).
- Water-cleanup: Easier than traditional oil paint, but gives the same long-lasting feel.
- Low VOCs: Safer for indoor use.
You can choose from satin, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finishes depending on the look you’re going for. I usually opt for satin or semi-gloss on cabinets.
💡 Pro tip: Let each coat dry for 24 hours and wait at least 2–3 weeks before heavy use. That curing time makes all the difference.
Benjamin Moore Advance vs. Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel
I’ve also tested Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel. It’s a solid runner-up and widely used by professional painters—but here’s how the two compare in my experience:
| Feature | BM Advance | SW Urethane Trim Enamel |
|---|---|---|
| Finish | Smoother, fewer brush strokes | Slightly more visible texture |
| Application | Easier to apply with roller or brush | Less forgiving |
| Durability | Excellent | Excellent |
| Clean-up | Soap + water | Soap + water |
I used SW Urethane on my old kitchen cabinets and BM Advance on my bathroom vanity and built-ins. While both held up well, the Advance paint gave me a more professional finish.
Why Alkyd Paint Is the Secret Weapon
Alkyd paints are a hybrid between oil-based and water-based paints. That means you get:
- The durability and hard finish of oil
- The low VOCs and easy cleanup of latex
That’s why paints like Benjamin Moore Advance are ideal for cabinet projects—they check every box.
Should You Spray or Roll?
Either works well. I’ve done both and had great results with:
- Foam rollers for small vanities and built-ins
- HVLP sprayer for smooth, even coats on large surfaces (like kitchen uppers and lowers)
The key is to use light coats and let each one dry thoroughly.
Do You Really Need Primer?
Yes—especially if:
- You’re painting raw wood or stained cabinets
- The existing paint is glossy or oil-based
Use BIN Shellac Primer or Stix Bonding Primer for best results.
My Application Tips for the Best Finish
- Use quality tools: Purdy brushes and high-density foam rollers are worth the investment.
- Sand between coats: Lightly sand with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth out any raised wood grain.
- Don’t rush the dry time: Wait 24 hours between coats and 2–3 weeks for full curing.
- Skip the top coat: With alkyd or urethane enamel, a top coat isn’t necessary.
Frequently Asked Questions
Not with Benjamin Moore Advance or SW Urethane Trim Enamel. They cure to a hard, durable finish.
Don’t panic—lightly sand the spot and touch up with a brush. It’ll blend in.
White will always be a classic, but you can also check out my favorite cabinet paint colors here.
Final Thoughts
I’ve painted more cabinets than I can count—and I keep coming back to Benjamin Moore Advance. It’s the most professional-looking paint I’ve used, and it holds up beautifully with time.
Whether you’re painting a bathroom vanity or your entire kitchen, this is the best cabinet paint I can personally recommend.
I have 1970 good ole pine cabinets. Few years ago we got smart painted them with a semigloss no primer just put that paint right on. … now uh oh hate them. As new cabinets are not I’m the budget how do I correct this mess. Strip? Repaint. Or learn to love the mess.
Hi Lisa,
Is the paint peeling and chipping? If it is, you’re probably going to have to strip the down. If you can live with the boxes, take the doors off and put some citristrip on and the paint should come right off. Then clean them up, sand, prime and paint. Of course, if you can learn to love them it’s a lot less labor intensive!
I use Extreme bond primer from Sherwin Williams and Emerald Urethane by Sherwin Williams and I love it and so do my clients!
Hello! I’m trying out the SW Emerald Urethane on my brand new cabinets. When we bought them the brown tones didn’t match so we are painting them black. They are showing all my brush strokes – as in if I pick up the brush and where I put my brush down or if I turn the brush sideways. So it seems I need to use one strokes all the way across. The problem will come because they are a little bit like a shaker style, so I’m not sure how to paint the inside panel without leaving marks where I’ve moved the brush tip. Do I just need to remove them and get a sprayer to spray them? Any suggestions? Thank you so much for any advice you can give!
Hi Yvonne,
You will always have some sort of brushstrokes if you paint cabinets with a brush, no matter how good the paint is. If you’re set on using a brush, paint in one direction (with the grain if it’s visible). Then paint the outside of the cabinet in one direction (clockwise). Light coats of paint help a lot too. I’ve used this paint on my cabinets and it dried really well with very minimal brushstrokes (I did only use a paintbrush too because it’s what I had on hand!). I would recommend using a foam roller made specifically for painting cabinets and doors, and you’re much less likely to see issues. Paint any corners with the brush first, then use the roller. Make sure to leave ample drying time between coats, and lightly sandy between coats, too. At this time of the year, you’re probably talking 24-48 hours between coats, especially if it’s hot and humid.
Finally – I should add, if spraying is an option, it will ALWAYS look more professional! It’s also generally quicker in the long run!
I use a nylon brush and it limits the brush strokes to very little. I also use Benjamin Moore Advance Alykd paint.
What type of paint and what prep for old formica type cabinets.
Hi Sandy, prep + paint is the same but you’re going to have to use a bonding primer to ensure adhesion to the formica. Besides that, make sure they are very clean to start with and have been sanded slightly to help the primer adhere. Then I would follow with the Alkyd paint. This article should help you: https://www.bobvila.com/articles/how-to-paint-formica/
Any recommendation on what kind of primer to use on new unpainted cabinet door made of combination of mdf and wood? I’m thinking of using either Sherman Williams ProClassic paint or go the Benjamin Moore advance line. What would you recommend? I just repainted some maple color built in cabinets with Valspar stain blocking blocker and enamel paint and it was a bit of a battle as it seems to still be easily chipped so trying to find a better option for the kitchen. Thanks!
I would always use a shellac based primer on unsealed wood. My preference is Zinsser B-I-N Interior Multi-purpose Shellac Wall and Ceiling Primer. It will guarantee that the wood won’t bleed and works amazingly well with the ProClassic or BM Advance line over it. On another note, SW recently came out with a new line of paint – Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel and it works even better on cabinets that the ProClassic so I would consider going that route, too!
I am about to redo my oak cabinets in white paint.. I do not want them to chip and scratch, so is the best preventative mixing in the hard coat additive or topping with polyacrylic? I did my bathroom vanity in sherwin williams pro classic enamel paint and it is now scratching up ..i did the light sanding first, wiping down, primer with zissner, 2 coats and then 3 coats of paint.. and it still scratches.. my nails hit it sometimes when i grab for the handle..and now to touch up the scratches do i have to prime the scratch then paint or just paint alone? thanks , new to professioanl looking paint jobs. Kim
Hi Kimberly – you have a few options. First, I would make sure they are deglossed and light sandly. I would prime them, too just to be certain. Then – you can either use a latex paint with the hard coat additive OR use an Alkyd paint like BM’s Advanced line. Both will give you excellent results that will dry to a rock hard, chip resistant finish. The hard coat is definitely the cheaper option as BM paint are very price. But it’s up to you! While I have not painted any cabinets in my home with the hard coat, my doors get banged and kicked by my kids ALL the time and still look perfect! You should not have to top it with a polycrylic if they have been painted and allowed to cure correctly.
For the scratches, you don’t need to prime, just touch up with the paint. SW Pro Classic Enamal is really good paint that’s used for trim and cabinets all the time so I’m surprised this happened. It seems like it never cured right….did you allow each coat to fully dry before the next?
I sanded, primes and sprayed the Advance on my cupboard doors and they are all scratched. Now I hear the Advance paint is not formulated to be thinned for sprayers. Maybe that’s my problem? Any insight?
Hi Laura. What type of sprayer are you using? I’ve used the Advance line with my Wagner sprayer and didn’t need to thin it. I would contact your local BM store and ask them I don’t have have experience with thinning it.
I have read some info on fusion mineral paints have you heard anything about them compared with other hard wear paints?
Kim, Fusion Mineral paints are excellent! I’ve recently started using them for painting furniture but I don’t as of yet know anyone who has used them on kitchen cabinets (which are susceptible to grease and needing to be cleaned down).
Thank You for your quick reply! I do have access to a sprayer. Is it necessary if I am sanding the cabinet to use a primer with the Sherwin-Williams paint? I was going to consider the extreme bond primer by Sherwin-Williams. The only problem is the store is an hour away. The only close option I have Home Depot which is a half an hour away. So if I could skip the primer it would save me a trip! But I want to do it right so if I need to use the primer I will take the time. :)
I would like to do that to my kitchen cabinet. Your kitchen looks so much more relaxing and pretty. Brilliant choose of color.