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The short answer: The best paint for kitchen cabinets is Benjamin Moore Advance in satin. It levels out to a smooth, factory-like finish with few brush marks, cures hard enough to hold up to daily use, and cleans up with water. Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel is a close second. Whichever you use, start with a bonding primer and let the paint cure for 2 to 3 weeks before heavy use.

bathroom vanity before and after being painted
before and after painted bathroom vanity.

My Picks at a Glance

Benjamin Moore Advance

  • Best for: Best overall, smoothest finish
  • Finishes: Satin, semi-gloss, high gloss
  • What I painted with it: Bathroom vanity, built-ins, kitchen cabinets

Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel

  • Best for: Pro-level durability
  • Finishes: Satin, semi-gloss, gloss
  • What I painted with it: Old kitchen cabinets

Primers: Benjamin Moore Stix (most cabinets) and BIN Shellac (stained wood, knots or oil-based paint).

Why Benjamin Moore Advance Is My Favorite

After years of trial and error with oil-based paint, latex and chalk paint, I keep coming back to Advance. I’ve used it on a full bathroom vanity makeover, built-in shelving and kitchen cabinets, and the results have been smooth and durable every time.

  • Smooth finish: It levels out as it dries, so brush and roller marks mostly disappear.
  • Durable: It holds up to kitchen drawers being opened all day and bathroom humidity.
  • Easy cleanup: It behaves like oil paint but cleans up with soap and water.
  • Low VOCs: Safer to use indoors.
quart of benjamin moore advance paint
blue bathroom vanity

💡 The catch is patience. Wait 16 to 24 hours between coats, and give it 2 to 3 weeks to fully cure before heavy use. Rushing the cure is the number one reason painted cabinets chip.

Benjamin Moore Advance vs. Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel

I used Sherwin Williams Urethane on my old kitchen cabinets and Advance on my vanity and built-ins. Both held up well, but Advance gave me a more professional-looking finish. Here’s how they compare:

  • Finish: Advance is smoother, with fewer brush marks. Urethane shows slightly more texture.
  • Application: Advance is easier with a roller or brush. Urethane is less forgiving.
  • Durability: Both are excellent.
  • Dry time between coats: Advance needs 16 to 24 hours. Urethane dries faster.
  • Cleanup: Both clean up with soap and water.

My pick: Advance if you’re a DIYer brushing or rolling. Urethane is great if you’re spraying or hiring a pro and want it to dry faster.

Satin or Semi-Gloss for Kitchen Cabinets?

I use satin on kitchen cabinets (as I did for my bathroom vanity, too). Satin has a soft sheen that looks modern and hides small dings and brush marks. Semi-gloss is shinier and a little easier to wipe clean, but it shows every imperfection in the wood and in your paint job.

  • Satin: Best for most kitchens, especially shaker doors and painted wood with some grain.
  • Semi-gloss: Good for a more traditional look, or for bathroom cabinets that get splashed a lot.
  • High gloss: Only for perfectly smooth, sprayed doors. It’s beautiful, but it’s unforgiving.
  • Skip flat and eggshell: They aren’t durable enough for cabinets.

Which Primer to Use

Primer is the step that keeps cabinet paint from peeling.

  • Benjamin Moore Stix: My go-to for most cabinets, including laminate and previously painted cabinets. It sticks to slick surfaces without heavy sanding.
  • BIN Shellac Primer: Use it on raw or stained wood (it blocks tannins from bleeding through), knotty wood and cabinets painted with oil-based paint.

Can You Paint Over Cabinets That Were Painted With Oil?

Yes, but you can’t put water-based paint straight onto oil. Clean the cabinets well with a degreaser, scuff-sand everything with 220-grit sandpaper, wipe off the dust, and prime with BIN Shellac Primer. Once the primer is on, you can use Advance or Urethane on top. In our old kitchen, I did this and it turned out great. You can also use a product called OIL BOND that’s specifically designed to adhere to oil-based paints.

The Best Paint for Bathroom Cabinets

The same paints work in bathrooms. I used Advance on our bathroom vanity and it still looks perfect after 3 years. Always wait the full cure time before putting things back in the drawers.

Should You Spray or Roll?

Both work. I’ve had great results with:

  • High-density foam rollers for vanities and built-ins
  • An HVLP sprayer for kitchen uppers and lowers, where you want a perfectly even finish across a lot of doors
painted pantry cabinets
The lower cabinets were factory finished while the uppers were added a few years later and sprayed.

Use thin coats and let each one dry completely.

My Tips for a Smooth, Lasting Finish

  • Use good tools: Purdy brushes and high-density foam rollers are worth it.
  • Sand between coats: Lightly, with 220-grit sandpaper.
  • Don’t rush: Wait the full time between coats and give it 2 to 3 weeks to cure.
  • Skip the top coat: Advance and Urethane cure hard on their own.
improve kitchen without remodeling

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best paint for kitchen cabinets?

Benjamin Moore Advance in satin, with a bonding primer underneath. Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel is a close second.

What is the best Benjamin Moore paint for cabinets?

Advance. It’s Benjamin Moore’s waterborne alkyd, made for cabinets, doors and trim.

How long does cabinet paint take to cure?

It’s dry to the touch in hours, but it takes 2 to 3 weeks to cure fully. Be gentle with doors and drawers until then.

Can I use chalk paint on kitchen cabinets?

I don’t suggest it. I know this was a fad about a decade ago, but it doesn’t look professional, no matter how well you do it.

Do I need a top coat on cabinets?

Not with Benjamin Moore Advance or SW Urethane Trim Enamel. They cure to a hard, durable finish.

What if I make a mistake?

Don’t panic—lightly sand the spot and touch up with a brush. It’ll blend in.

What’s the best paint color for cabinets?

White will always be a classic, but you can also check out my favorite cabinet paint colors here.

More Cabinet Posts

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34 Comments

  1. Terry Nunneley says:

    Jenna, the paint can in your photo shows a SATIN finish. Is this your recommendation for a bathroom vanity? I thought a gloss finish would make for easier cleanup.
    Thanks!
    Terry

    1. Hi Terry, satin is what is generally used on cabinets and vanities. You could go semi-gloss if you want, but I would never recommend high gloss.

  2. Hello!
    2 years past our kitchen remodel and I’m needing to paint the island due to a few small chips and wear on edges. Would you recommend using the primer and then the color,
    or just starting with 2 coats of color?
    This area gets so much activity and even though we try to be careful, others have dinged the finish. I’d love to find something that works and after reading your article, I’m wondering if this is the answer. Thanks :)

  3. Shari Barton says:

    Good information!!
    Can’t wait to tackle my laundry room cabinets.
    Shari

  4. Thank you so much for the information. I have white builder grade cabinets. I’ve be told not to paint them . Will it work with
    the Benjammen Moore paint?

    1. If you’ve been told not to paint them it might be because they’re laminate or veneer and the paint may not stick.

  5. This is so helpful! I love the fact that you went through the different types of paint that one could use in their kitchen cabinet painting project. I feel like in every blog I’ve read, everyone uses a slightly different type of paint so it’s difficult to know what kind would be best for me and my cabinets. Thanks so much for sharing this!

    1. Is it possible to successfully paint 60 year old cabinets that are weathered i suppose from heat and moisture in the kitchen. Some are cracking

  6. Mas Construction says:

    Amazing color Suggestion :)
    Awesome blog.
    Thanks for sharing

    1. Hello! I read this post and your oil bond post and I just want to clarify… Is it best to wipe down the cabinets with the oil bond if they are stained, then add the oil bond to a latex primer and then also add it to the paint? Just want to make sure I do this right the first time!

      1. Hi Holly, Wiping down with the oil bond just replaces the step of sanding/deglossing. If you are using a shellac-based primer, you will NOT need the oil bond additive. If you’re using a regular latex primer, then yes. But you don’t need to add it to both the paint and the primer. Just one is fine.

    2. Lorey Felton says:

      Hey Jenna! I just read through this tutorial and I’m so grateful for the helpful information. I’m planning on painting my kitchen cabinets white also and your choice of paint has sparked my interest. I had originally planned on using Valspar Cabinet and Furniture oil-enriched enamel. But now I’m questioning if I should use the Benjamin Moore. Have you tried or heard anything about the Valspar? I love their products on my walls. But, as you pointed out, cabinets are a whole other beast and I definitely want durability. Please let me know your thoughts. Thank!

      1. From my experience, professionals usually use either the Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams Urethane Trim Enamel. Both work well, I’ve just had better luck with the BM personally.